VCU Fashion Professor wins International Silk Design Competition

By Tom Gresham

Kristin Caskey, associate professor in the Department of Fashion Design and Merchandising at Virginia Commonwealth University, has won first place in the International Peacock Standard Thai Silk Design Competition.

Thailand’s Queen Sirikit Institute of Sericulture and the International Textile and Apparel Association co-sponsored the competition, which was intended to showcase the Thai government’s “Peacock Standard” for Thai silk. The standard, which was established by Queen Sirikit, bears the Royal Peacock logo. The competition’s design brief called for “Work Wear for Women of the World.” Caskey’s winning submission was titled “Cultural Traveler.”

The first round of judging was done based on digital images and a written abstract describing the design process and techniques. During the second round, the top eight designs were judged in Bangkok. Erica Knicely, a graduate of the fashion department in VCUarts, also was among the finalists.

All eight of the finalists' designs were presented in a runway fashion show during this week’s Association of Southeast Asian Nations Collaboration on Sericulture Research and Development Conference. Her Royal Highness, the Princess of Thailand, was in attendance. The three top award winners were invited to Bangkok to receive a trophy and cash award of $1,500 presented by the princess after the fashion show. Caskey’s work will go on display at the Queen Sirikit Institute for Sericulture and become part of the permanent collection there.

Caskey writes of her submission “A traveler across cultures requires elegance, modernity and flexibility as well as shelter. The layers of this ensemble float, one atop the next, with ease and simple grace. As a design professional, I often found myself in Asia, Europe or the Middle East. One minute I required an ensemble of layers to combat air conditioning and navigate boardrooms, the next I needed simple but light garments to work with factories and hunt down buttons and fabrics. As a tourist I required a modest garment when visiting mosques and markets. My ensemble has a range of forms, from a body skimming bias cut top to a long vest with a feminine fit, which can be worn floating, or belted. The ¾ sleeve dress can be worn as a coat, an easy dress, a tunic or belted. The pant is slim and comfortable. Each garment enhances the wearer’s movement with the rustle of airy silk without constricting the body, or forcing the fabric to do something against its nature.”

Caskey was inspired by the menswear stripes found in the Peacock Standard silk swatches she received and by the work of Issey Miyake. Miyake’s Plantation line utilized roomy forms, simple coloration and subtle stripes and checks. She also was inspired by the small packages that the silk folds down to – a perfect travel fabric. Each garment was created through a process of sketching, draping and drafting, fitting in muslin and finally basted and fit in the fabric. Each garment is fully finished inside with self-bias binding.

Caskey received her bachelor's in fashion design from Parsons School of Design and a master of fine arts in print/media from Cranbrook Academy of Art. She has practiced as a designer for Perry Ellis, Arlequin Inc. and Urban Outfitters. From spring 2009 to the present, she has been a consultant for Heartfelt LLC. Caskey has exhibited widely as an artist, and recent shows include the LAPS 20 National at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Fathoming at the Southeastern Center for Contemporary Art and inclusion in Cage d’ Oiseaux in Meppel Holland and Vezelay France.